Visiting the Magical Realm of H.C. Andersen's Native Land in Scandinavia

Looking at my reflection, I seem to have on huge shimmering pantaloons, seen exclusively in my view. Youngsters sit in a water feature imitating mermaids, and nearby resides a talking pea in a exhibition box, beside a imposing stack of cushions. It represents the domain of the beloved author (1805-1875), a leading 19th century’s highly cherished storytellers. I'm visiting Odense, on the island of Fyn in the south of the Danish kingdom, to investigate the writer's timeless impact in his native city many decades after his death, and to experience a handful of magical stories of my own.

The Exhibition: The Andersen Museum

The H.C. Andersen Museum is the city’s museum dedicated to the storyteller, incorporating his first home. A museum representative explains that in past designs of the museum there was little focus on his fairytales. Andersen's biography was examined, but Thumbelina were missing. For visitors who travel to the city in search of storytelling magic, it was not quite enough.

The redevelopment of Odense city centre, rerouting a main thoroughfare, created the chance to reimagine how the city’s most famous son could be commemorated. A major architecture competition awarded the architects from Japan the renowned designers the project, with the innovative curatorial vision at the center of the layout. The remarkable wood-paneled museum with interwoven spiral spaces launched to great fanfare in 2021. “We have attempted to create a space where we avoid discussing Andersen, but we speak in the manner of him: with humour, irony and outlook,” explains the representative. Even the gardens follow this philosophy: “This is a landscape for strollers and for colossal creatures, it's created to make you feel small,” he says, a goal realized by thoughtful gardening, experimenting with height, scale and numerous twisting trails in a deceptively small space.

The Author's Influence

Andersen wrote multiple personal accounts and regularly provided conflicting accounts. The exhibition adopts this philosophy fully; frequently the perspectives of his companions or excerpts of written messages are displayed to politely doubt the writer's personal account of events. “The author is the guide, but he's untrustworthy,” says the expert. The effect is a compelling swift exploration of the author's biography and work, mental approaches and most popular narratives. It’s stimulating and playful, for grown-ups and youngsters, with a additional basement make-believe land, Ville Vau, for the children.

Visiting the Town

In the real world, the modest urban center of Odense is charming, with stone-paved roads and traditional Danish homes colored in cheerful shades. The author's presence is everywhere: the traffic lights feature the writer with his iconic top hat, brass footprints provide a complimentary pedestrian route, and there’s a sculpture trail too. Each summer this dedication peaks with the yearly Andersen celebration, which marks the writer's impact through visual arts, performance, stage shows and musical performances.

During my visit, the week-long event had hundreds of events, the majority were without charge. As I explore Odense, I encounter colorful performers on stilts, fantastical beings and an writer impersonator sharing tales. I hear empowering poetry and see an remarkable nocturnal display with acrobatic dancers lowering from the town hall and suspended from a construction equipment. Still to come this year are talks, creative sessions for all ages and, broadening the oral history past the author, the city’s regular wonder event.

All good fairytale destinations deserve a palace, and this region boasts 123 castles and stately homes throughout the region

Pedaling Through History

Similar to other Danish regions, bikes are the perfect means to get about in the city and a “cycling highway” curves through the urban core. Starting at Hotel Odeon, I ride to the complimentary harbour-side swimming pool, then into the countryside for a circuit around Stige Island, a compact territory joined by a bridge to the primary land. City residents have outdoor meals here after work, or take pleasure in a quiet hour catching fish, aquatic activities or taking a dip.

Back in Odense, I dine at a local eatery, where the culinary offerings is derived from Andersen themes and stories. The literary work Denmark, My Native Land appears when I visit, and manager the restaurateur recites passages, translated into English, as he presents each course. This is a practice commonplace in my time in Odense, the island inhabitants love a yarn and it feels as though sharing tales is continuously offered here.

Manor House Visits

All good magical places require a castle, and this region features numerous historic homes and stately homes throughout the region. Going on excursions from the city, I visit Egeskov Castle, Europe’s finely maintained moated palace. Although large sections are open to visitors, the castle is also the private residence of the noble family and his spouse, the royal resident. I contemplate if she would notice a small legume through a stack of {mattresses

Jeffrey Greer
Jeffrey Greer

A seasoned journalist with a passion for investigative reporting and uncovering the facts behind the headlines.